Carrantuohill

March 2005

Standing at 1,039 metres, Carrantuohill, part of the Macgillycuddy’s Reeks, is the highest mountain in Ireland, with a number of good ridges, just lower than Snowdon, but higher than anything in England. 

A party of six of us, Steve Bennett, Bob Lister, Ian Merther, Steve Popple, Paul Read and myself thought it would be a good test of our durability as mountaineers to combine a weekend in a pub in Ireland  with its ascent.

So, using the internet to the full we booked the flight from Birmingham  to Shannon with www.flybe.com a hire car with www.budget.ie and bed and breakfast accommodation at www.climbersinn.com ready for a mixed weekend of mountain climbing and beer drinking www.guinness.com .

Driving the 100 or so miles down to our destination we passed through many gaily coloured small towns and villages, each trying to outdo the next for their quotient of pubs and bars. The one big regret of the weekend was that due to the tightness of our schedule we never had the chance to attempt a pub crawl. A single high street would have needed a week in itself.

We arrived at the Climbers Inn in Glencar to find a building acting as pub, shop, hotel, post office and petrol station. Unfortunately it could also have added ‘morgue’ to its list of services, so cold and cheerless was its interior. The place had only come out of winter hibernation that weekend and we were the only guests. A single peat burning stove was trying in vain to warm the place up despite our sneaking extra logs onto the fire at every opportunity and the Guinness, being served at room temperature, was cooler than it should have been to be enjoyed at its best.

Saturday morning dawned grey and damp but we headed off on our attempted ascent undaunted. Ian and Paul opted for the more challenging horseshoe route up over Beenkeragh and back via Caher, while the rest of us contented ourselves with an ascent via Caher to return by the same route. Fortunately the rain held off but we soon found ourselves walking in dense cloud, sometimes through snow just a few degrees the wrong side of freezing. Upon reaching the summit we took a few very ordinary photos and then headed back down. Thankfully as we were descending the cloud did begin to rise so we were eventually granted some fine views of the mountain. Those prayers on the summit must have done the trick.

We found a good place for a meal on the Saturday night, Kate Kearney’s Cottage which served excellent food and drink with the added bonus of traditional music, and their Guinness slipped down a real treat.

As is often the way with mountaineering we awoke to cobalt blue skies next morning and were able to admire the beauty of the surrounding scenery as we journeyed home via a ferry trip across the Shannon . We arrived at the airport in good time but while we waited in the departure lounge it surreally began to fill with hundreds and hundreds of American GIs all wearing identical desert fatigues, presumably on their way to or from Iraq. It was like watching a real life game of the old Space Invaders or Lemmings as identical clones kept emerging one after the other from one door at the end of the room to eventually outnumber us non-combatants by hundreds to one.

And so we left Ireland having climbed its highest mountain but having failed to find the famous craic that had inspired the idea of the trip in the first place. We may have won the battle, but we had lost the war.

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